Photo: Horse in a snowy field looking over a fence.

Cooperative Extension Fact Sheet FS1142

Winter Care for Horses

Carey Williams, Extension Specialist in Equine Management
Sarah Ralston, VMD, PhD, DACVN, Retired

As days get shorter and the weather becomes cold and wet, there are many things to consider when maintaining horse health and well-being throughout the long winter months. This fact sheet addresses the most common concerns regarding equine housing, health maintenance, nutrition, and exercise in cold weather.

Figure 1. Young horses kept outside in the winter will grow a long thick haircoat.

Housing and Shelter

One needs to look at their individual circumstances during the winter months to figure out what is best for their horse. For example, even in the harshest winter, most horses do not need to be stabled in a barn if there is shelter from the elements in the form of a run-in shed or even a dense stand of trees. However, most horses that are kept outside with little or no shelter will grow a longer hair coat. This longer, denser hair coat will help keep them warm and prevent heat loss, but it limits their ability to effectively cool out quickly after exercise. Some solutions may include clipping the long hair and blanketing the horse (see below). When they are turned out in cold, windy and/or wet weather, horses need to be monitored carefully for shivering, whether they are blanketed or not.

A horse's respiratory health during the winter can be a concern if housed indoors with limited ventilation. Ventilation should be maximized by keeping windows/doors open as much as possible, even in very cold weather. Ceiling fans/vents also facilitate adequate air exchange. Wet bedding and manure should be completely removed at least once a day.

Blanketing and Clipping

It is not necessary to blanket a horse in winter if it has a naturally thick coat of hair and is adapted to the cold. However, if you choose to do so, there are a wide variety of blankets available, ranging from lightweight "sheets" that are best suited for short-term use after riding or unclipped horses, to thick, waterproof "rugs" designed for long-term use with horses turned out for extended periods of time or those with full body clips. It is important to select a blanket that is appropriate for the specific conditions the horse faces. If the horse is outside in wet weather, it is important that the blanket be at least water repellant and lined with material that will wick moisture away from the horse's skin. A wet horse that has been blanketed will be colder than an unblanketed horse with a thick coat of hair that can naturally dry out. Blanketed horses should also be monitored daily by either removing the blanket or checking with a bare hand to see if the weight of the blanket is causing the horse to sweat. If a horse sweats under the blanket, especially if its coat is dirty, it can contribute to skin irritation and infections.

It is equally important that blankets fit the horse. Many horses develop rubs or sores on the point of their shoulders, withers, and where the straps secure the blanket, if it is too small or tight. If the horse is blanketed continuously, it is imperative that the blanket be completely removed at least once a day. This can be done while the horse is being groomed. Check for rub marks or infections, and monitor for weight gain or loss. For more detailed information on blanketing, see Rutgers Cooperative Extension publication, FS1081: To blanket or not to blanket.

If horses are exercised regularly to the extent of generating sweat through the winter months, it is recommended to at least use a 'trace clip' (Figure 2), where the hair is shaved to about 1/8-inch length from the underside of the neck and abdomen, and the sides of the horse from the elbows to about a quarter of the way up the body. If the horse has a complete 'body clip,' where all hair on the neck, legs, and body is shaved, the horse should not be left out in inclement weather, even if blanketed. Other clipping patterns commonly used include a 'hunter clip,' where hair is shaved like a body clip, but hair is left in the saddle area and on the legs. The 'Irish clip' (Figure 3) is where hair is shaved from the underside of the neck and barrel like a trace clip, but hair is left on the hindquarters. Body-clipped horses may have higher energy needs than unclipped horses due to their increased exercise regime and excess heat loss. Be aware that the hair will not grow back rapidly in the winter, so once horses are clipped, they must have the appropriate shelter and blankets to keep them warm for the rest of the winter and into the early spring months.

Nutrition

Major nutritional concerns during the winter months include providing adequate calories to maintain good body condition and enough water intake to prevent impaction colic. To monitor body condition score in unclipped horses in the winter it is essential that they are physically touched to get a true assessment. In the winter, horses often need extra energy to keep warm. Horses' energy requirements may increase up to 25% during winter months. Usually, this need can be met by feeding approximately 25% more hay. The extra hay generates additional warmth to the horse through the heat produced in the hindgut (cecum and colon) when digesting/fermenting the forage. If horses are consuming overly mature or low-quality hay, the vitamin and mineral content may be inadequate, and therefore feeding a multi-vitamin/mineral supplement might be necessary. Any multi-vitamin/mineral balanced for the type of hay being fed and the life stage of the horse would be sufficient.

Horses limit their intake of ice-cold water to only what is necessary to satisfy thirst, which may not be adequate to maintain optimal hydration. It is important that horses are given access to an unlimited amount of water (usually 10 gallons or more) that is free of ice at least once a day in sub-zero weather, especially if water is available only in buckets or tubs. If automatic, heated waterers are used, units should be checked daily to make sure they are functioning properly and have not become frozen or have electrical shorts that cause horses to receive shocks when drinking. A tablespoon or two of plain salt can be added to feed to encourage increased water intake and, if feeding pelleted feeds or hay cubes, they can be soaked in water to further increase water intake. Horses should always have free access to salt blocks. For more detailed information on feeding horses in the winter, see Rutgers Cooperative Extension publication, FS1143: Winter Feeding for Horses.

Figure 4. A horse with a quarter sheet to cover it's hindquarters while warming up and cooling down.

Exercise

In harsh winter weather, many horses are often stabled for days at a time. If they have unlimited access to hay, salt, and water, most horses are perfectly happy to remain in stalls. However, if horses develop lower leg edema (stocking up) or are agitated in the stall, efforts should be made to turn it out for exercise as often as possible (even if in an indoor arena) or at least a hand walk. Exercising your horses in the winter does not need to be stopped when the snow becomes deep, as it can act as a form of resistance training. However, caution needs to be taken when riding in snow that is excessively heavy and damp, as it simulates riding in deep sand and could potentially cause tendon injuries. If the snow is light and less than a foot, doing trot sets or some lighter flat work can help with cardiovascular conditioning and hind end strength. It is advised that one knows the area they are riding so as not to ride over any snow-covered holes or hidden equipment.

Figure 5. A horse with a quarter sheet to cover it's hindquarters while on a trail ride.

If riding a fully clipped horse in the extreme cold, it is recommended to use a quarter sheet that covers the horse's hind quarters during warm up and cool down. However, horses with full coats or a trace clip do not need a quarter sheet when warming up; for cool down, depending on how sweaty the horse becomes, a quarter sheet might be necessary to help wick away the moisture. Even with clipped horses, it is not recommend continuing the entire workout with a blanket or sheet as their large hind quarter muscle mass produce a lot of heat while doing a training workout, which could contribute to additional sweat and time to cool down. However, if going on a slow ride like a trail ride, fully clipped horses may need the sheet to keep them warm throughout. Cooling down and drying out the hair coat is important. Leaving a hot, wet horse standing in a cold, drafty stall or turning it out in a chilly wind could cause it to get chilled and potentially stressed to the point of getting sick.

In terms of shoeing requirements in the winter, some horses are left barefoot, especially if not ridden often. Horses have better traction on snow and ice with bare feet than with flat metal shoes and the snow will not accumulate in the bare hoof as it does in a shod hoof. If the horse needs to be shod and is going to be ridden or turned out in snow, it is advisable to use "snow pads," in the form of a full hoof pad or a rim pad, which prevent snow from accumulating in the hoof. Caulks (studs that are either fixed or removable) or borium can be used to help with traction on frozen or icy ground (ask your farrier about practical options). Sole bruising is a problem in the winter when working on uneven frozen ground, especially in horses with thin soles. If riding regularly in the winter without pads, keep workouts to unfrozen footing (or deeper snow) as much as possible. If arenas are frozen, it may be best to postpone riding that day or week rather than risk injury to the horse. For a fun Infographic on winter riding, see Ins and Outs of Winter Riding (ExtensionHorses.org).

Health

One health concern in the winter is protection against infectious diseases even though most horses get their routine vaccinations in the spring. Booster vaccinations for diseases transmitted by direct contact, such as influenza, rhinopneumonitis and strangles, are recommended if the horse is in a boarding stable with a lot of horse traffic. If new horses are brought in frequently or a horse is attending shows/competitions throughout the winter season, a more rigorous vaccination schedule may be needed. Mosquito borne diseases such as West Nile Virus should not be a problem in the colder climates, but booster vaccines should be considered if shipping the horse to warmer climates for the winter show circuit.

Horses should only be de-wormed as needed, based on fecal analysis for the presence/absence of intestinal parasite larvae or eggs. Manure should be picked up on a daily basis in the paddocks and around areas where horses congregate outside to prevent unsanitary organic material accumulation that contributes to the development of parasite infestation, thrush, and skin infections on the lower legs of horses. This is especially important when the temperature climbs above freezing, and melts accumulated snow and ice creating muddy conditions.

Another health consideration during the winter months could occur after heavy storms. Tree limbs that fall into paddocks/pastures could potentially be toxic and horses could chew on the branches out of curiosity or boredom. Also, in the spring, the first green plants to appear are usually noxious weeds, not nutritious grasses, so it is important to feed plenty of hay and keep the weed population down by mowing and/or using herbicides if necessary.

This fact sheet contains some considerations for winter care for various types of weather conditions and farm situations. It is recommended to first assess your farm's situation and horse care needs before deciding what form of housing/shelter, blanketing or clipping schedule, exercise regime and health care measures are right for you and your horse.